Paharganj by Deepa Rajan

The busy Main Bazaar

Paharganj is one of two places in the capital city instantly recognized by most Delhi-ites as Delhi's seedy underbelly, second in  ‘shadiness’ only to Palika Bazar. Possessing an exotic, colourful past, Paharganj has been shaped by tumultuous changes in the historical evolution of New Delhi.  Originally a suburb of the erstwhile Mughal walled city, the face lift given to this area by a certain Sir Edwin Landseer Lutyen, is the reason why one can stand before and marvel at the positively archaic Imperial Theatre today.

The partition of India proved to be another period of metamorphosis. A tremendous influx of refugees from Pakistan were allotted shops in Paharganj, who faced with the dire need of making a fresh start, took up the business of eateries. Some of the famous names established since 1947-48 are doing excellent business even into the third generation of ownership. I was told to visit eateries that thrive till today, such as 'Pehalwan da Hotel' and 'Sitaram Diwan Chand'. I stopped in at the latter, also popularly known as Sitaram Bhaturewala. And really, chole bhature never tasted better.

Paharganj was most lastingly impacted by the 'Hippie Movement.' It is home to cheap hotels, originally meant to suit hippie backpackers, which are now ideal for travellers on a shoe-string budget. 'Hotel Cottage Yes Please' and 'Hotel Relaxxx' promise to fulfil all your ‘Shantaram-esque’ needs at a bargain price while giving you something to laugh about for free.

In the main market it is plain to see that till date, Paharganj preserves its quaint air of the '70s, and for the young and the offbeat, it is a mecca of ceaseless delights. Numerous new-age book shops are filled with all kinds of attractive titles including yoga, tantra and karmic philosophy- strange trance music leading you through their doors. I saw bright patchwork pyjamas, hookahs, glass lamps, painted doorknobs, antique gramophones, silver jewellery, ancient tomes and gold coins- the list is endless.

Paharganj is a utopian food paradise, dotted with eclectic eateries. Visiting ‘Sam's Cafe’, with its elegant rooftop setting, ‘Korean Cafe’ with its rather questionable menu and the popular 'German Bakery’ would be simply scratching the surface. After a while, you suddenly realize why foreign tourists are so at home in Paharganj- to my great amusement, the waiters communicated effortlessly with tourists in spurts of stylishly accented English, and even in bits and pieces of French and German learned by them over years of serving tourists.

If I try to encapsulate the lure and charm of the narrow, dirty streets of Paharganj in a few words, all I can say is that it is a world within a world, and a time within a time. It is an intense kaleidoscope of the eccentricities and oddities of India and the world alike. And, like some of the wines served in its modest restaurants, it is best enjoyed exactly as it is.